May 17, 2024 – Cab Franc Chronicles
By Allison Slute
The concept of a signature grape is one that has been long been embraced by wine professionals and enthusiasts alike. Whether it be Sauvignon Blanc being synonymous with New Zealand or Malbec putting in Argentina on the map, signature varieties not only help make it easier for consumers and wine professionals seek out wines and styles they will enjoy, but for the wine-growers in the region, the connection with a signature grape can serve to unify and advance the region as a whole by fostering a spirit of collaboration and community around a single variety.
I have long believed that Cabernet Franc could be THE red vinifera variety that all wine regions of New York State could proudly embrace is their flagship grape. And for a small group of producers in the Hudson Valley, there was no question that Cabernet Franc was going to be the grape that would help put their region on the map.
Earlier this week, I attended a trade and media tasting of the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition hosted by Benmarl Winery in Marlboro, New York. Founded in 2016, the Coalition aims to promote the Hudson Valley’s unique expressions of Cabernet Franc and to encourage the planting of more Cabernet Franc across the region by enhancing the visibility and support of the grape across member wineries and the industry partners alike. As a part of the event, over two dozen Hudson Valley Cabernet Francs were available to taste from the Coalition’s eight member wineries.
The Hudson River Region is one of New York’s seven sub-regions and it begins about 35km north of New York City, flanking either side of the mighty Hudson River for about 155km. With a total of about 180ha (446 acres) under vine, the region is significantly smaller than the powerhouse regions of the Finger Lakes and Long Island, and is planted with a mix of vinifera and hybrid varieties. With its cool continental climate, the success of viticulture here is largely due to the moderating influence of the Hudson River, and a vineyard’s proximity to the river can be a determining factor as to what varieties will be successful where.
Cabernet Franc’s ability to ripen well in cool and warm vintages, while also being cold hardy enough to survive in the region’s harsh wintertime temperatures, is part of the success of the variety here. And because of these extreme grape growing conditions, it is not uncommon for wineries to bring in grapes – Cabernet Franc included – from the Finger Lakes and/or Long Island for some of their wines, which prompted Coalition members to adopt the use of a Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition sticker to identify wines made from at least 85% Hudson Valley-grown Cabernet Franc.
While the amount of Cabernet Franc grown in the region is (for now!) quite small – likely 10 to 12 hectares or so – the enthusiasm these producers have for this variety is undeniable. Many winery owners and winemakers remarked to me that thanks in part to the Coalition and its members actively promoting Cabernet Franc as the region’s signature variety, consumers are beginning to ask for the wines by name and have a better understanding of the various expressions the grape is capable of here. Moreover, the winemakers here are genuinely curious about Cabernet Franc in general, from the Hudson Valley and beyond, and are tasting regularly to learn and improve.
The majority of the wines I tasted were from the 2022 and 2021 vintages, with a few 2020s thrown in the mix as well. These two vintages couldn’t be more different, with 2022 being a rather warm, dry vintage, and 2021 cooler with a significant amount of rain in the fall. I was happy to hear from some winemakers that they adapt their winemaking practices for Cab Franc to the vintage conditions, and aren’t afraid to play up the lighter, juicier profile of Cabernet Franc in cooler years like 2021, while leaning into the ripeness achieved in 2022 to produce a wine with more body and concentration. I tasted some very good examples from both vintages, and in a few cases I even preferred the 21 over the 22. Most of the wines available to taste were thoughtfully made, lower in alcohol (12.5% to 13%), and offered a good balance between Cabernet Franc’s fruit profile while highlighting its herbaceousness in a really attractive way. Across the board, I would prefer to see a little less oak usage in some of the wines to better highlight the gorgeous fruit profile that Cabernet Franc has, but I was encouraged to hear from several winemakers that they have begun to incorporate the use of larger oak vessels, more neutral oak and shorter time in barrel in their work with Cabernet Franc.
All in all, this was a great introduction to the Hudson Valley wine region and their approach with Cabernet Franc. I remain optimistic that this band of eight producers will continue to work together to better understand their climate and soils and to hone their approach with Cab Franc in the vineyard and winery to best highlight the unique terroir of the region. I believe that we will be seeing many more great Cabernet Francs coming out of this region in the future.
Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition Members and Wines Tasted
Benmarl Winery: 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc, 2021 Estate Cabernet Franc, 2019 Estate Cabernet Franc
Fjord Vineyards: 2022 Cabernet Franc, 2021 Unoaked Cabernet Franc, 2015 Cabernet Franc, 2022 Cabernet Franc Rosé, 2022 Cabernet Franc Rosé
Milea Estate Vineyard: 2022 Sang’s Cabernet Franc, 2022 Reserve Cabernet Franc. 2021 Sang’s Cabernet Franc
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery: 2022 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Special Reserve, 2021 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Special Reserve
Quartz Rock Vineyard: 2023 Cabernet Franc Estate, 2022 Cabernet Franc Estate
Robibero Winery: 2023 Estate White Cabernet Franc, 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc, 2021 Estate Cabernet Franc, 2020 Estate Cabernet Franc
Rosina’s Winery: 2021 Cabernet Franc, 2020 Cabernet Franc
Whitecliff Vineyard: 2022 Cabernet Franc, 2021 Cabernet Franc, 2020 Cabernet Franc, 2016 Cabernet Franc