March 28, 2025 – hudsonvalleytimes.com
Letter to the Editor By Doug Glorie
Many wine regions around the globe have become known for a certain grape variety. In Tuscany, it’s Sangiovese; in Austria, it’s Gruner Veltliner; in New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc. In New York, the Finger Lakes region is known for Riesling and Long Island for Merlot.
And what about the Hudson Valley? The Concord grape has been grown here for 200 years, but many would say it is not worthy for making wine. It is best left for jam and juice.
In the late 2000’s, our local wine community tried to rally around Seyval Blanc and DeChaunac – both hybrid varieties – but they didn’t catch on. Ten years later we tried again, but this time we agreed on Cabernet Franc. In 2016, we established the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition (HVCFC) which continues to flourish today. The Hudson Valley, with our modest vineyard acreage, boldly declared Cabernet Franc as the signature grape of our Hudson River Region. The Coalition currently has eight members producing wines which meet production and quality standards, just as Chianti Classico has been doing for 100 years.
The Coalition has conducted several wine events in recent years, the largest of which was in April 2024 at Benmarl Winery. This event produced a lot of buzz in and among the wine press and retail attendees. It caught the attention of wineries around the state, and in my opinion set the foundation for the birth of a new organization called Cab Franc Forward, established later in 2024. This group recently produced a major tasting event for press and trade in NYC in early February. Cab Franc Forward’s objective is to declare Cabernet Franc as the signature grape of New York State.
The Cabernet Franc grape has been around for centuries, and is, in fact, the parent of the king of red, Cabernet Sauvignon. The beauty of Cab Franc is that it is highly expressive of soils and location where it is grown, also known as terroir. Each grape region in New York, also known as A Viticultural Area (AVA) produces a Cabernet Franc wine slightly different from the other regions due to its terroir. Cab Franc grapes produce aromatic, medium-bodied, food friendly wines with earthy red and black fruit flavors and moderate tannin. The wines can be of one clone, a blend of multiple clones, a blend of Cab Franc and other grape varieties; the grapes can also produce a lively Rosé. Cab Franc is happy to be paired with a hamburger, steak, fish, pasta, and grilled vegetables. Over the past 30 years, I have sampled hundreds of Cabernet Francs from every appellation across New York State. I rarely find a bad one.
So back to my question: Can Cabernet Franc be the signature grape for New York? Absolutely! Within ten years, New York will quite likely be world renowned for its Cab Francs. You can be a part of this movement. Start now by pairing it with a New York strip steak, pan seared swordfish or lentil bolognese. Seek out Cabernet Francs produced in our great state, or better yet, try one produced in the Hudson Valley! You will not be disappointed.