June 17, 2024 – The Weed Witch
By Carly Fisher
Not even a day after returning from the Catskills, I was on another bus headed to Benmarl Winery—the oldest vineyard in America—for a tasting showcase of entirely Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc wine producers. Watching the shifting viticulture landscape of the Finger Lakes on the heels of the cultural rise of farmhouse production spurred by the craft beer movement and supported by the New York Farm Bill Law, I was eager to see how this would influence the new generation of winemakers. Verdict’s in: I’m impressed!
Across the river is Millbrook Vineyards, just below one of my favorite B&Bs, Wing’s Castle. Millbrook offers a great Tocai and incredible sunset views from the tasting room’s second floor. New on the scene is Milea Estate Vineyard, which boasts a luxury tasting room and impressive releases from winemaker River Allan, plus enviable views of the Hudson.
While you’re in town: While you’re in town, consider booking a stay at Buttermilk Falls Inn, a secluded 75-acre estate in Milton with a luxury day spa, animal sanctuary, and Henry’s, an upscale farm-to-table restaurant. Even if you don’t stay, it’s worth visiting for brunch or dinner. The food is fabulous, and the wine list is surprising! It’s not every day you’ll find a Robert Sinskey, M. Chapoutier, and Domaine Chanzy alongside a sparkling from Oregon, a Cab from Arizona, and Hudson Valley Chardonnay. The scallops were perfectly seared and the lamb couldn’t have been fresher.
New York claims some of the oldest vines, but its reputation as a wine producer has only recently improved as ambitious winemakers explore mineral-rich soils and favorable climates at more affordable costs. Historically, distribution limitations pushed many winemakers to meet local market demands, producing those sweet, viscous fruit wines that any modern wine drinker would probably consider undrinkable minus the rare creative bartender interested in a Chopped-style challenge. However, as consumers become savvier and the market more saturated, winemakers are now experimenting with varietals and upgrading production and tasting facilities. (Wait until New York’s cannabis industry matures—hospitality is about to get wild!)
Benmarl has a pretty excellent tasting room with sweeping views of the ‘Gunks and Hudson River. Fjord Vineyards is another must-visit; their tasting room wasn’t around when I wrote my guide, but their wines were worth mentioning anyway. Whitecliff Vineyard, with its inland views and excellent wines, is also nearby. Quartz Rock Vineyard formerly Glorie Farm Winery, is now run by WOC co-owner Jacqui Ferrari Heavens and her husband, Dan Heavens, featuring outdoor seating, live music, tarot readings, and Caribbean food pop-ups. On the north end of the trail, Robibero’s tasting room serves wood-fired pizzas on Saturdays and an experimental white Cab Franc—almost like a cross between an unoaked Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that will appeal as an entry-level gateway wine for staunch sweet wine drinkers to try something a little more sophisticated.